Yes. The white solid or haziness is a mass of resin crystals. Crystallized resin will not cure properly. To bring the resin back to a usable state, heat the bottle up in a water bath above 125 degrees F until the resin clears up. It will then be ready for use.

Up-to-date SDS documents are available on the individual product pages or in the RESOURCES section at SystemThree.com

Probably. Hardeners yellow and darken over time due to contact with air and sunlight. This does not affect their performance. To satisfy yourself do a small test and make sure it cures properly.

We will guarantee the performance of our epoxy products for three years from the date of manufacture, printed on the bottom of the containers, provided they are stored properly. They will probably last much longer, but they should be tested first after the three-year period. The resin may crystallize or the hardener may darken but this does not affect its performance. Crystallized resins should be reheated in a water bath that is 125 F until the resin clears up prior to use in your application.

Our products are marine or industrial, and not intended for use in applications involving food contact. To claim that a product is food-safe, it must be tested by an independent lab, which we do not do. On the other hand, when some of our two-part epoxy products are properly measured and mixed, then properly cured, they are theoretically inert and would be no more of a problem than many other plastics. But since the accuracy of those processes is beyond our control, we can’t make those claims.

Epoxy resin adhesives will bond all woods, aluminum and glass well. It does not bond to Teflon, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, or Mylar. It bonds poorly to polyvinyl chloride, acrylic and polycarbonate plastics. The only way to tell if an epoxy will bond to a material is to try it. Generally, epoxy adhesives are the best choice for bonding dissimilar materials together. If epoxy bonds to Material A and to Material B it will bond the two materials to each other. The best thing to do is to try it and see for yourself.

Most of our liquid epoxy products need to be poured out soon after the two parts are mixed together to prevent premature curing, called "exotherm."

Many of our clear epoxy adhesives, coatings, and laminating resins will heat up, or exotherm, if left in the mixing container too long because of the chemical reaction.

Make sure that the surfaces are clean, sanded, and free from contaminates.  Best results are achieved by adding some silica thickener to the G2.  Also, apply only enough clamp pressure to close the joint.  Over clamping will squeeze out the G2, resulting in a weak bond. 

See Technical Data Sheet or container for surface prep information.

See Technical Data Sheet or container for coverage areas.

Liquid products can easily be measured by volume; paste and solid products must be measured by weight. To measure by volume, the use of disposable cups with graduation marks on the side is adequate. Pour the Part A resin and the Part B hardener on top of each other, in the same container. For measurement by weight, a gram scale (for small batches), or a postal scale(for larger batches) is necessary.

Different products have different minimum tolerable application temperatures. Please see the individual product pages on the website or the Technical Data Sheets for the product.

No. Epoxy resin systems are two-part products where each part is designed to go with the other in the specified proportions.

Yes.  System Three offers a sanding and buffing kit for sale on the website.  The video shows its use.

MirrorCoat Buffing and Polishing by System Three from System Three Resins, Inc. on Vimeo.

A white paper literature piece can also be downloaded from the website here:

Guide to Buffing and Polishing

The rule of thumb with cured Mirrorcoat® and how much heat it will tolerate is this:  If an object is not too hot to hold in your hand, you can set it directly on a Mirrorcoat surface which is completely (more than a week) cured.  If it is hotter, you must place a coaster or hot pad underneath the object.

The sticky spots are most typically uncured resin or hardener which hasn't been completely mixed in.  If it's excess resin it can be removed with a strong solvent like lacquer thinner.  If it's excess hardener it can be removed with soap and water.  The voids can be filled with small quantities of newly-mixed Mirrorcoat, carefully using a spatula or squeegee to smooth out any excess material.  Let this cure 24-hours and lightly sand the surface with medium-coarse sandpaper.  Finally, apply an additional flood coat at 4 fluid ounces per square foot.

WR-LPU waterborne polyurethane topcoat comes in 12 standard colors.  We will match any color sample you send us for an upcharge with a minimum order of 1 gallon.  Small 4 oz. samples of all 12 colors are available for a nominal charge from the website.  These can be intermixed in any proportions to obtain the color you want in order to have it matched.

You can paint your design under or over the epoxy coating.  If it's underneath, ordinary house paint will do.  If it's on top of the resin, we would recommend our WR-LPU.

Make sure that the surfaces are clean, sanded, and free from contaminates.  Best results are achieved by adding some silica thickener to the G2.  Also, apply only enough clamp pressure to close the joint.  Over clamping will squeeze out the G2, resulting in a weak bond. 

Silvertip, General Purpose, or Cold Cure epoxy resin will coat the foam without attacking it.

LINEAR FEET OF ADHESIVE OR SEALANT PER CARTRIDGE

See Technical Data Sheet or container for working times.

• Recoating or applying multiple coats of one of our 2:1 epoxy products (General Purpose, SilverTip, Clear Coat, MirrorCoat, etc.) can be done without sanding if done within 72 hours of the previous coat. Beyond 72 hours, sand the previous coat with no higher than 120 grit sand paper to ensure the next coat adheres or properly levels out. 

• For S-1 Sealer and Cold Cure products, the recoat window is 24 hours. 

• For all System Three adhesives (Quick Cure, T-88, Gel Magic, MetlWeld, etc.) sand in between coats for best adhesion if a second application is desired. Please follow all instructions on substrate surface preparation prior to applying System Three adhesives.

• For fairing compounds, putty, and pastes, please allow to fully cure then abrade or sand if additional product is to be applied.

See Technical Data Sheet or container.