Epoxy products can only be made fire-retardant at the manufacturing level.  There are currently no materials that can be post-added to our epoxies to make them fire-retardant.

There are two common reasons why the epoxy didn't cure:  incorrect measuring and incomplete mixing.  Measuring and mixing is really easy with most System Three® epoxy systems because they mix at a 2:1 or 1:1 volume ratio, but this doesn’t mean you don’t have to pay attention to what you’re doing. First , read the label or Technical Data Sheet to see what the correct ratio is for the product you are using. Customers will call our Technical Support line suggesting that something is wrong with the epoxy because it didn’t cure properly. We know of no situation where properly-mixed resin/hardener has gone bad or has been contaminated and wouldn’t cure. In the majority of cases, it turns out that the batch was either incorrectly measured or insufficiently mixed. Epoxy chemistry just will not allow it to work any other way.

If you’re working on a project that requires you mix many small resin batches, develop a measuring technique that is sufficiently accurate and stay with it. Doing it the same way each time will minimize the chance for error. 

Yes. The white solid or haziness is a mass of resin crystals. Crystallized resin will not cure properly. To bring the resin back to a usable state, heat the bottle up in a water bath above 125 degrees F until the resin clears up. It will then be ready for use.

We will guarantee the performance of our epoxy products for three years from the date of manufacture, printed on the bottom of the containers, provided they are stored properly. They will probably last much longer, but they should be tested first after the three-year period. The resin may crystallize or the hardener may darken but this does not affect its performance. Crystallized resins should be reheated in a water bath that is 125 F until the resin clears up prior to use in your application.

Appendix A is a section from the System Three Epoxy Book and can be found as a separate file on our website here: Appendix A - Estimating Usage

Yes, we offer a pourable Epoxy Pigment Dispersion specifically formulated to be dispersed in System Three epoxy resins. They are available in 7 standard colors and can be blended with each other to create additional colors. Please check our our blog and product page for more information on these color pigments here.

All other dyes and colorants should be tested by the user to ensure it cures to their satisfaction.

Liquid products can easily be measured by volume; paste and solid products must be measured by weight. To measure by volume, the use of disposable cups with graduation marks on the side is adequate. Pour the Part A resin and the Part B hardener on top of each other, in the same container. For measurement by weight, a gram scale (for small batches), or a postal scale(for larger batches) is necessary.

Many of our clear epoxy adhesives, coatings, and laminating resins will heat up, or exotherm, if left in the mixing container too long because of the chemical reaction.

Most of our liquid epoxy products need to be poured out soon after the two parts are mixed together to prevent premature curing, called "exotherm."

System Three® epoxy resin adhesives will bond (glue) all woods, most metals, concrete, masonry, glass.  They will also bond some plastics like nylon and Mylar. Following a flame-treatment surface preparation, they will bond to many other plastics including polyethylene, polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride, acrylic and polycarbonate plastics. Generally, epoxy adhesives are the best choice for bonding dissimilar materials together. If epoxy bonds to Material A and to Material B it will bond the two materials to each other. The best thing to do is to try it and see for yourself.

System Three® coating/laminating resins present easy-to-bond to surfaces.  When these surfaces are cured and prepared properly, nearly any film-forming coating or adhesive will bond well to them.  Follow the surface preparation directions on the product you intend to use over the top of the System Three epoxy product.

Yes.  If you need documentation, please contact Technical Support, support@systemthree.com, and reference the specific product.

Yes.  If you require documentation, please contact Technical Support, support@systemthree.com, and reference the specific product.

Q:  Can you build an aquarium out of System Three products?

A:  Yes.  You can build it out of wood and fiberglass using Silvertip™ or General Purpose™ Resin systems.  And then you can bond the parts together with one of our adhesives like Gel Magic or T-88.  But because our products have not been tested for aquatic leaching potential, you must then apply a finish to the completed unit that has been tested for its safety to fish.

Usually wiping liberally with denatured or rubbing alcohol will remove most of it.  Then laundering the item(s) in the washer will remove the rest. 

Up-to-date SDS (Safety Data Sheet) documents are available on the individual product pages or by clicking here.

Remember, most products have two components, so will have two SDS.

Make sure that the surfaces are clean, sanded, and free from contaminates.  Best results are achieved by adding some silica thickener to the G2.  Also, apply only enough clamp pressure to close the joint.  Over clamping will squeeze out the G2, resulting in a weak bond. 

See Technical Data Sheet or container for surface prep information.

See Technical Data Sheet or container for coverage areas.

Different products have different minimum tolerable application temperatures. Please see the individual product pages on the website or the Technical Data Sheets for the product.

No. Epoxy resin systems are two-part products where each part is designed to go with the other in the specified proportions.

Epoxy adhesives, being gap-filling glues, need only enough clamping to close the joint. Unlike other glues, epoxy requires low pressure and a proper film thickness of resin to make a proper glue joint. 

• Recoating or applying multiple coats of one of our 2:1 epoxy products (General Purpose, SilverTip, Clear Coat, MirrorCoat, etc.) can be done without sanding if done within 72 hours of the previous coat. Beyond 72 hours, sand the previous coat with no higher than 120 grit sand paper to ensure the next coat adheres or properly levels out. 

• For S-1 Sealer and Cold Cure products, the recoat window is 24 hours. 

• For all System Three adhesives (Quick Cure, T-88, Gel Magic, MetlWeld, etc.) sand in between coats for best adhesion if a second application is desired. Please follow all instructions on substrate surface preparation prior to applying System Three adhesives.

• For fairing compounds, putty, and pastes, please allow to fully cure then abrade or sand if additional product is to be applied.

See Technical Data Sheet or container.

We know that System Three® finishes, WR-LPU and Marine Spar Varnish 
are compatible with RotFix™.  Nitrocellulose lacquer, waterborne finishes, and 2-part polyurethanes will work as well.  As far as oil and 1-part polyurethanes, you will need to test for compatibility.

RotFix Sealer is a great product for consolidating or hardening soft or rotted wood.  It's also useful as a general purpose wood sealer.  If you have wood to paint, and it's a little soft, but not rotted away to require a full repair,  Rot Fix epoxy sealer will act as a primer for paint.

Yes.  There are a few options:

1)  Dry pigments can be added into the mixed products in any proportion. 

 2)  Liquid dyes or paint colorants can be added into the mixed at up to 2% by weight.

 3)  System Three® Epoxy Paste Pigments can mixed into the Part A at up to 10% by weight and then mixed 1:1 with the Part B.

Unfortunately, no.  The resin content of the products is high enough to effectively have them function somewhat as sealers, and the stain will not penetrate like it will into the bare wood.

The suggested workaround is to mix dry pigments or house paint colorants into the paste or putty as you combine the Part A and B.  This can approximate the color of the stained wood around it.

SculpWood Putty can be applied over the RotFix immediately after application.

Yes.  System Three® offers a sanding and buffing kit for sale on the website.  Contents are shown below.  The video shows its use with Mirrorcoat®, but it also works well on WR-LPU and coating epoxies like Silvertip™.  Click on the image for detailed information and to purchase.

A white paper literature piece can also be downloaded from the website here:

Guide to Buffing and Polishing

From our experience, cratering or fish eyeing almost certainly indicate that one of three things occurred during your application:

1. Insufficient drying and/or incompatibility with a stain or oil: Pre-testing is always recommended when using products from another manufacturer.

2. Sanding too smooth can cause the epoxy to draw away from the surface. For example, sanding higher than 220 grit will make it difficult for the Mirror Coat to overcome the surface tension of the substrate. 

3. Lack of coverage: We specify pouring the MirrorCoat at 4 oz/sq ft to allow enough coverage on the substrate. Any less will result in a lack of adequate coverage.

Yes.  System Three offers a sanding and buffing kit for sale on the website.  Contents are shown below.  The video shows its use.

A white paper literature piece can also be downloaded from the website here:

Guide to Buffing and Polishing

The rule of thumb with cured Mirrorcoat® and how much heat it will tolerate is this:  If an object is not too hot to hold in your hand, you can set it directly on a Mirrorcoat surface which is completely (more than a week) cured.  If it is hotter, you must place a coaster or hot pad underneath the object.

If you happen to put an object that is too hot on a Mirrorcoat surface, and it leaves a ring, the ring can many times be removed by passing a hairdryer back and forth over the affected area.

The sticky spots are most typically uncured resin or hardener which hasn't been completely mixed in.  If it's excess resin it can be removed with a strong solvent like lacquer thinner.  If it's excess hardener it can be removed with soap and water.  The voids can be filled with small quantities of newly-mixed Mirrorcoat, carefully using a spatula or squeegee to smooth out any excess material.  Let this cure 24-hours and lightly sand the surface with medium-coarse sandpaper.  Finally, apply an additional flood coat at 4 fluid ounces per square foot.

The WR-LPU Topcoat may be thinned with clean deionized or distilled water at up to 25%. 

WR-LPU waterborne polyurethane topcoat comes in 12 standard colors.  We will match any color sample you send us for an upcharge with a minimum order of 1 gallon.  Small 4 oz. samples of all 12 colors are available for a nominal charge from the website.  These can be intermixed in any proportions to obtain the color you want in order to have it matched.

You can paint your design under or over the epoxy coating.  If it's underneath, ordinary house paint will do.  If it's on top of the resin, we would recommend our WR-LPU.

Depending on your specific application, there are any number of options.  If you want a clear product, or one that can be colored, a pourable, self-leveling epoxy like Mirrorcoat® or Mirrorcast™ will work very well.  For vertical surfaces, a non-sagging product like Gel Magic, primarily used as an adhesive, is easily mixed and spread, filling gaps without shrinking.

The Board Defense powder is really designed to be used as a first step to our System Three End Rot System to make sure that wood destroying organisms are killed before it is repaired and patched. It is effective in destroying any decay, insect, or fungi in the instant it is applied and can last for a few months without any other protection. For long lasting repair and protection, please check our End Rot system here: https://www.systemthree.com/pages/rot-repair

The Marine Spar Varnish can be thinned with mineral spirits at up to 10-15% by weight.

System Three® Marine Spar Varnish can be used over some sanding sealers but it will depend on the formulation of the sealer. Most lacquer-based sanding sealers are not recommended because the sanding aids are wax-related. We recommend testing the varnish over any other sealers in a small section to ensure you get good adhesion between the two coatings.  Also, for future reference, the Spar Varnish does not require sanding in between coats if applied within 12-24 hours of the initial coat. 

System Three® offers the End Rot® Kit, a group of products which kill rot, repair the wood, and keep the rot fungus from coming back.

Make sure that the surfaces are clean, sanded, and free from contaminates.  Best results are achieved by adding some silica thickener to the G2.  Also, apply only enough clamp pressure to close the joint.  Over clamping will squeeze out the G2, resulting in a weak bond.